GILGIT: Four Pakistani climbers have started their adventure to climb the world’s seventh highest peak Dhaulagiri at 8,167 metres, the third highest Kanchenjunga, and the Everest in Nepal.
Renowned Pakistan climber Sajid Ali Sadpara completed his acclimatisation rotation on Dhaulagiri, 8,167m peak, the world’s seventh highest mountain in Nepal.
Mr Sadpara had reached the base camp of the peak on April 6 and started his rotation and climbed up to the Camp 3 and descended to the base camp.
Talking to Dawn, he said he had completed the rotation at the peak and now waiting for weather to improve to start his summit push.
He said the summit push would start on May 9 considering weather forecast. He said he would attempt to climb the peak without supplement oxygen and porter support in Alpine style.
Son of legendary mountaineer late Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Sajid has already summited the world’s eight peaks above eight thousand metres, including the world’s second highest peak, K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I, Gasherbrum-II in Alpine style.
He also took part in rescue operations at many peaks including K2, and plans to summit all 14 eight-thousanders peaks in Alpine style.
After climbing the Dhaulagiri peak without oxygen, he would be the summiteer of nine eight-thousanders peaks without supplement oxygen and porter support.
Naila Kiani aiming to summit Kanchenjunga
Also, renowned Pakistani female mountaineer Naila Kiani started her adventure to climb Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the world’s third-highest mountain, in Nepal.
According to a statement issued on Sunday, she is currently en route to the base camp of Kanchenjunga, an overland journey that will take her seven days to finish.
This expedition marks a significant step in her quest to climb all 14 of the world’s peaks exceeding 8,000m.
Ms Kiani has already summited 11 of the world’s 14 peaks above 8,000m. This includes Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum-I, Gasherbrum-II, Annapurna, Lhotse, Manaslu, Makalu and Cho Oyu. She is the first and the only Pakistani woman to achieve this feat.
Sirbaz Khan, Wajidullah Nagri
Likewise, Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan also started his adventure towards Kanchenjunga peak to attempt summit the peak in Alpine style to compete summit of all 14 eight-thousanders.
He had successfully summited the Annapurna peak in Nepal without using supplementary oxygen on April 7.
Mr Khan is the first Pakistani climber to have summited all the top 14 mountains in the world. He is also the first Pakistani to scale 13 of them in Alpine style — without oxygen support, according to Karrar Haidri, the secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan.
The only remaining peak for Mr Khan to complete the list is Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the world’s third-highest mountain, in Nepal.
After climbing the peak, Sirbaz Khan will be first and only Pakistani to climb all 14 eight-thousanders in Alpine style.
Meanwhile, Pakistani mountaineer Wajidullah Nagri also reached the base camp of the Everest to start attempt to summit the peak.
Wajidullah Nagari has already summited K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum-I and Gasherbrum-II in Pakistan.
Published in Dawn, May 5th, 2025
