This Italian Grape That Almost Vanished Is Gaining Taste Traction

The highest temperatures in Piedmont, one of 20 administrative regions that constitute Italy, are found near its southeast, around the city of Tortona. This land is renowned for agricultural bounty, including Montèbore cheese, Volpedo peaches, Garbagna cherries, Tortona strawberries, San Sebastiano truffles, Nobile del Giarolo salami, as well as pistachio nuts, asparagus, chickpeas and apricots. It is also known for wine, and increasingly for that made from the white grape Timorasso that verged on extinction but is now rocketing upward in reputation.

Within this southeastern segment of Piedmont is an amoeba shaped wine appellation named Colli Tortonesi. At 303 square miles in area (786 square kilometers) this is the same size as New York city, although hillier and greener and with a comparative population density of only 1% of that city. The wine produced here is predominantly red from the Barbera grape. But that is changing. Since 2008, territory planted with Barbera vines within the Colli have halved—dropping to 1,330 acres (539 hectares) while those planted with white Timorasso grapevines during that same period have increased by almost 1,000%—from 101 acres to 1,090 acres (41 to 440 hectares).

Timorasso is a hardy and heat loving vine that produces delicate, low yielding grapes. These create wines that age well and also improve dramatically with little aging. This grape thrived in the Middle Ages, and during the 19^th century its juice was sent to Austria and Switzerland to be blended with Riesling to create a sweet wine named Torbolino—meaning cloudy.

For reasons that included the phylloxera louse—which decimated grapevines in the mid 1800’s—as well as the labor-intensive needs of this grape, by 1987 only 1.2 acres (0.5 hectares) of Timorasso existed in the world. Fortunately, they grew on the property of winemaker Walter Massa, who along with other fastidious growers championed their comeback.

Timorasso produces succulent juice with a wide range of expressions—from citrus to green apples and honey when young to more of a caramel tilt after a few years of aging.

The current president of the Colli Tortonesi wine consortium is Gian Paolo Repetto, a winemaker who formerly owned an industrial engineering company. He described the current situation with producers of Timorasso.

“We now have 116 winemakers in this little ocean of Piemonte to the east, with six valleys and 46 municipalities. We are waiting for approval from Rome for the Derthona subzone appellation.”

‘Derthona’ is the ancient Roman name for the city of Tortona, as well as for its renowned basketball team. If approved, the sub area Derthona appellation status would apply only to Timorasso grapes and would include three levels—Piccola Derthona, Derthona and Derthona Riserva with minimum alcohol levels, respectively, of 11%, 12.5% and 13%.

“If you have no identity, nobody knows you and nobody buys you,” Repetto continued. “We do not want Timorasso to be too widespread. We want it made around Tortona and named Derthona as a synonym for identity. We have been good at spreading the name.”

Until the name of this sub area is officially approved, many producers include both the existing and expected new terms on their bottle labels—Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. No doubt abbreviating that will be appreciated by wine producers.

Winemakers in Colli Tortonesi rarely focus exclusively on Timorasso. Most growers also generate other wines—including Barbera, Cortese, Dolcetto, Freisa and Croatina. They also tend to other crops. Renowned winemaker Eliso Semino of Azienda Agricola La Colombera first planted Timorasso almost 30 years ago. Yet today her family also harvests chickpeas, wheat and fruits such as peaches and apricots.

Timorasso also produces sparkling wine. Valli Unite Winery is a 42-year-old cooperative whose 19 members grow wheat and vegetables and produce honey. In their restaurant 95% of ingredients are produced by members of the cooperative and are used to create dishes such as nettle and dandelion croquettes, or artichokes stuffed with hazelnuts. Even wood for their tables is felled locally. One fifth of their 250-acre (100-hectare) holdings include vines, of which a percentage is Timorasso. From this they produce still wines, but also a sparkling wine that spends 24 months on lees and pairs well with local Montèbore cheese and honey.

Most Timorasso is fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks.

The largest Timorasso producer, Claudio Mariotto, generates a quarter million bottles a year—half of which include Timorasso wine. They prefer not to use oak or other woods to impact flavor, but instead elicit creaminess from their weekly ‘battonage,’ or stirring of dead cells (lees) inside of stainless steel tanks.

Yet not all refrain from using wood.

Enrico de Alessandrini, owner of Sassaia, learned his wine craft in Burgundy and utilizes their methods.

“I chose the Burgundian route,” he explained. “Harvest in small containers, spontaneous fermentation with yeast on the grapes and aging in oak.” He believes that oak imparts richness and complexity to wines.

Timorasso is not easy to grow. The thick-skinned grapes are prone to fungal disease such as botrytis. They can also produce double or triple buds at bud break, which need to be manually inspected and cleaned. However, despite challenging seasons, successful vintages glow with appeal. For example, 2022 was an extreme year in terms of weather—the hottest in a quarter century and with low rainfall, while 2023 was considered a ‘miraculous vintage’ despite sparse rainfall in spring as well as summer, and temperature variability. Yet wines from both vintages can taste equally appealing, although different.

The future of Timorasso appears to be positive. That the grape even has a future is more miraculous than vintage 2023. It resulted from recognition of its potential as well as the visionary hard work over four decades by Colli Tortonesi producers dedicated to their land and its flavors.

Selected tasting notes for more than 25 Timorasso wines from three vintages are below. These wines either scored 93+ points or above, or are considered to be of ‘Superlative Value ♫♫♫’ according to my proprietary Vino Value algorithm that combines subjective tasting scores with objective retail prices to determine optimal purchasing value. Only wines for which cellar door retail prices were available were evaluated this way.

Other wine tasting notes and scores for more than an additional 65 Timorasso wines are posted here on my Vino Voices blog.

Azienda Agricola Iandolo Francesco. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 96 points.

Light and fresh aromas that include gin and tonic, spring flowers, key lime pie and spearmint. Gorgeous combination of light, fresh and brisk acidity with caramelized flavors. Stunning amalgamation of softness and delicacy with darker burnt sugar flavors and nuttiness. Balanced, complex and buoyant. Winemaker Francesco Iandolo writes: ‘I decided to dedicate myself to wine and, more generally, to a deep inner search.’ It appears that his search has paid off.

Vignetti Massa. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 95 points.

From the veritable savior of the Timorasso grape, Walter Massa. A honeyed aroma profile melded with light citrics. Beautiful mid palate flavors of oranges, tiramisu, lime tart, marshmallows and caramel. Lemon grass acidity on the finish with slight menthol flavor. Stunning.

Sassaia. De Alessandrini. Platinum. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 94-95 points. €55.00.

From Enrico de Alessandrini, based on Burgundian winemaking techniques that include small tray harvest and fermentation and aging in French oak. Aromas of honey, Crunchy bar and crème brûlée. Splendid flavors include toffee and Terrys All Gold chocolate as well as almonds and gingerbread. Complex and engaging.

Boveri Luigi. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 94+ points.

Delightful honeyed Burgundian aromas include caramel, white pepper, honey and peaches. Complex. A beautiful assembly that is balanced, delicate, engaging and includes flavors of white pear, honey and slight butterscotch. Crisp acidity.

Cantina di Tortona. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 94+ points.

Aromas of butterscotch, lemonade, menthol and minerality. Beautifully soft, full, creamy and generous mid palate with an array of flavors—including spearmint, apricot, green apples, white pears and gooseberries. Complex. Pair with shrimp and lime.

Cas’Al’Mat. iNTrO. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 94+ points.

Densely layered and complex aromas of maple syrup, golden syrup, marshmallows, balsamic and tropical citrics. Remarkably suave and seductive creamy mid palate with flavors that include oranges, oatmeal and lemon tart.

Cantine Volpi. Zerba Antica. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 94+ points.

Light, frisky, sparky, acidic aromas of a lovely matrix of mandarins and honey, butterscotch and butter. A beautifully balanced and layered wine with crisp acidity and flavors that include slightly buttered toast and marmalade. Engaging and well balanced.

Vignetti Massa. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 94+ points.

Deep, dark, beautiful assembly of aromas that include toffee, caramel, marmalade and buttered toast. Distinct and deeply delicious flavors that include caramel, banoffee pie and pumpkin pie. Beautiful acidity.

Claudio Mariotto. Pitasso. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2021. 94 points. €30.00. [Good Value ♫]

Fresh aromas include green grass, limes, honey and brown sugar. Structured, supple, somewhat complex and lovely mid palate with flavors of apple crumble, some butter and butterscotch and honey. Fresh acidity. Pair with hard cheeses.

Boveri Luigi. Filari di Timorasso. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 94 points.

Aromas of lime, spearmint and spritzer, as well as slight golden syrup and menthol. Honeyed delight in the mouth—a lovely and beautifully balanced mid palate with some citrics on the finish.

Vietti. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 94 points

Creamy and acidic aromas includes green grass, spearmint and key lime pie. Well balanced flavors in a slightly textured but also creamy mid palate that include guava, mandarins, pineapple and some honey. Pair with scallops and lime.

La Colombera. Santa Croce. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 94 points. €30.00 [Good Value ♫]

Fine filaments of aromas of spring florals, lemons and minerality. Flavors of a gorgeous caramel/toffee apple. Lovely mouth feel with honeyed flavors. Reminiscent of an aged Terlaner Pinot Bianco in terms of complexity and depth. Pair with grilled chicken that has been marinated in soy.

Sassaia de Alessandrini. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 93+-94 points. €35.00.

13.5% alcohol. Grapes are chilled after picking for 24 hours to soften grape skins before whole cluster fermentation. Round, creamy aromas of marshmallows, cider, apples, peaches, white pears and the slightest hint of menthol. Burgundian softness and elegance with a soft mouth feel.

Romanzo del Vino. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 93-94 points.

This wine under screw cap includes full, rounded and pronounced aromas of marshmallows and candy corn, lime pie, green apples and golden syrup. Delicate and engaging mid palate with finesse and flavors that include slight smokiness, caramel and slight menthol.

Cantine Sant’Agata – Franco Cavallero. Ciclico. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 93-94 points.

Pronounced and distinctly wonderful aromas of butterscotch, lemon grass, green grass, shortbread cookies, eucalyptus and spearmint. Different. Delicate, engaging and balanced mid palate.

Davico Stefano. Regina. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso 2023. 93-94 points.

Creamy aromas of a bucketful of honey as well as smoke, caramel and buttered toast. In the mouth this is elegant and creamy, layered, well structured, complex with toffee flavors and even a smidgen of Amarone and pine.

Vite Colte. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 93-94 points.

14% alcohol. Aromas of juicy fruit, menthol and honey. Complex, creamy and delightful mid palate with flavors that include white pears and tropical fruits.

Vigneti Letizia. Stappasogni. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 93-94 points.

Complex and delicious aromas of honeysuckle, white flowers, honey, buttered toast and brioche. Beautifully balanced with a creamy but also slightly textured mid palate and flavors of fruit cocktail and some golden syrup.

Fontanafredda. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 93-94 points.

Aromas of gin and tonic, key lime pie, guava and mango. Crisp and beautifully balanced in the mouth—an Italian breakfast apricot tart.

Ezzio Poggio Winery. Archetipo. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 92+-93 points.

Soft and delicate fragrances of spring flowers and mandarins. In the mouth this wine is light and slightly creamy and includes tropical fruits such as guava. Well balanced.

Mariotto Claudio. Pitasso. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 93-94 points. €30.00. [Good Value ♫]

Zesty, energetic aromas include gin and tonic and lime. Attractively balanced. Attractive flavors—key lime pie meets banoffee pie and a pot of honey. Beautiful. Pair with white fish.

Azienda Agricola di Gian Paolo Repetto. Origo. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2022. 93+ points. €37.00. [Good Value ♫]

Bright and forward aromas that include citrics and salinity. Beautiful mid palate flavors of honey, lemon juice and gooseberry jam, with firm and bright acidity.

Societa Cooperativa Valli Unite Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 91-92 points. €17.50. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫]

Aged in steel for a year. No filtration. Rancio style aromas include créme brûlée, butterscotch, orange peels and apple cider. Flavors akin to Sauvignon Blanc meets aged Pinot Bianco and include oranges, apricots, buttered toast and burnt sugar. Complex and well developed. Pair with an onion tart with white wine caramel sauce.

Azienda Agricola di Gian Paolo Repetto. Quadro. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 91-92 points. €17.50. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫]

Quite acidic aromas that include lime and apple juice in this 13.5% alcohol wine. Snappy yet delicate and creamy mid palate flavors of green apples. Well enfolded acidity with slight toffee on the finish. Harmonious and engaging.

Vigneti Repetto. Sarezzano. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 91+ points. €13.00. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫]

13% alcohol. Fresh aromas of applesauce, white pears, tangerines. Flavors include juicy green apples. Creamy tannins and brisk acidity. This Piccolo Derthona can age five to seven years.

Claudio Mariotto. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 92 points. €18.00. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫]

Made from prime grapes selected throughout the 17 hectare (42 acre) vineyard from this largest producer of Timorasso wine. 14% alcohol. Crisp, acidic and linear aromas of grapefruit, green apples, melon, candy cane and lemon grass; slight lime and salt. Beautifully creamy and complex yet light and delicate mid palate with flavors of guavas, buttered toast and mangos. Tight prevalent acidity and a silky honeyed mouth feel with a lingering luscious finish.

Claudio Mariotto. Bricco San Michele. Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona Timorasso. 2023. 92+-93 points. €20.00. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫]

Citric and chamomile aromas in this 14.5% alcohol wine from grapes grown on their youngest vineyard. Silky, honeyed flavors with slight balsamic.