Very very special, indeed: A 13-year-old expression of Old Fitzgerald VVS takes home the top prize … [+]
The World Whiskies Awards has been held annually since 2007 and in that time it has blossomed into one of the most influential competitions on the planet.
Why do we say that? Well, its esteemed panel of judges have proven, time and again, that they can shape–or at least predict–where global trends are headed. For example, back in 2012, the WWA named Yamazkai 25 Year Old the best single malt of the year, while conferring the best blended malt title to Nikka Taketsuru 17 Year Old. This was a direct precedent to the Great Japanese Whisky Boom that followed.
The organization just held its award ceremony for designated US categories of brown spirit, including bourbon, rye and Tennessee whiskey. Results were announced last Thursday in downtown Louisville. We’ve been covering it all, extensively, as always. But most enthusiasts out there are thirsting to know the winner of one award, in particular: “World’s Best Bourbon.”
This year, the top prize goes to a 2024 bottling of Old Fitzgerald Very Very Special. What makes this liquid very, very special, exactly? We’re glad you asked. Here’s everything you need to know about the 13-year-old expression.
Old Fitzgerald VVS is part of the so-called “decanter series,” an ongoing collection of bottled-in-bond bourbons, which the brand first debuted back in 2018. Green label releases in the series arrive biannually, in the spring and the fall. The maroon-labeled VVS, however, is less predictable. This award-winning example is actually just the third offering ever. And it was already an auspicious one, labeled as a special 25th anniversary edition.
To be clear, Old Fitzgerald has been around a lot longer than that. The renowned wheated bourbon has been produced since 1870. It’s been crafted by many hands at various locations ever since. But the anniversary above alludes to its current owner Heaven Hill’s acquisition of the Bernheim Distillery, which was producing the liquid, in April of 1999.
The barrels comprising this bourbon were actually distilled in that same year and emptied in March of 2013–just before its 14th birthday. The patient folks at Heaven Hill were so enamored by the liquid at this exact point in time that they opted to keep it in non-reactive vessels, effectively pausing any additional accruement of age.
Bourbon lovers should certainly be glad Heaven Hill finally found the right excuse to let it loose. Because this is a precious and unique pour, indeed. In its nose are oxidative threads of baked and brûléed orchard fruit, dusted in cinnamon. The palate is way deeper in texture and taste than most comparably-aged American whiskies; leather, candied plum and smoldering cedar rule the day. Pipe tobacco and barrel char cling to a slow-fading finish, riding a pleasingly viscous mouthfeel during the journey.
Aside from the novel stewardship of this specific expression, all Old Fitzgerald’s are also noteworthy for their use of a wheated mashbill. As indicated by Heaven Hill, it’s an exacting recipe of 68% corn, 20% wheat, and 12% malted barley. Any fan of the category will be quick to point out that some of the most sought after expressions of the liquid are, indeed, wheated bourbons, including labels no less luxurious than Pappy Van Winkle and WL Weller. With releases like this–and their ensuing accolades–Old Fitzgerald is undoubtedly worthy of being included alongside these distinguished stablemates.
Sadly for our wallets, it’s priced on par with them, too. Though the 2024 VVS debuted with a suggested retail price of $230, it currently sells for over 5x that amount on the secondary market.
Keep it parked here for more noteworthy winners from the World Whiskies Awards in the weeks ahead.
It takes a lot of burnt oak to make a brilliant Kentucky bourbon.
